DeWitt Academia Grand Tourbillon, blue, green

— In addition to the anthracite version, the new Academia Grand Tourbillon replica watches UK is also available with a blue or green dial.


Our editor-in-chief presented end of January a thorough analysis of the new Academia Grand Tourbillon Swiss replica watches, anthracite version.

This timepiece is also available with a choice a green or blue lacquer dial, with all the others features of the cheap replica watches UK being similar: manually-wound tourbillon calibre DW 8030 with 65-hour power reserve, jumping hours, jumping minutes, date, 18-carat rose gold round case, day/night display at the back, hand-crafted finishings.

 

Academia Grand Tourbillon, ref. AC.GT.003.
© DeWitt

Academia Grand Tourbillon, ref. AC.GT.002
© DeWitt Swiss replica watches for sale

The MB&F HM6 Space Pirate – Six Things to Know

Maximilian Büsser & Friends, better known as MB&F, debuted the Horological Machine 6 (aka “Space Pirate”, or simply HM6) last fall. This new replica watches uk model takes the domed look introduced with the HM3 “Frog” to new heights. MB&F timepieces are always creative on many levels. Here are six things to know about HM6.

1. Inspiration

The HM6 design comes from a Japanese anime TV series from Max Büsser’s childhood called Capitaine Flam (or “Captain Future” in English). Capitaine Flam had a spaceship called the Comet that consisted of two spheres joined by a connecting tube. Büsser says he imagined combining two such craft, and the seeds of Space Pirate were planted.

The gently curved lines of the case is inspired by the early 20th century art movement known as “biomorphism”, which emphasized naturally occurring shapes, including forms found in living creatures. MB&F cites as examples of this movement Matisse’s Le bonheur de vivre (The Joy of Life), the Sagrada Família church by Gaudí, and various works of the German industrial designer Luigi Colani.

2. Movement

The movement in the HM6 required more than three years of development. The aluminum domes displaying hours and minutes are machined from solid blocks of metal to an ultra-light paper thickness and revolve on ruby bearings. The domes rotate vertically, i.e. 90° to the plane of the movement, which is extremely rare in a wrist replica watches uk for sale due to the complexity of the drive train and gearing required.

The central regulator is a flying tourbillon developed specifically for this movement. The lack of space beneath the domed crystal meant that no upper bridge could be used. A retractable spherical shield made from six separate paper-thin blades can be closed via a crown to protect the tourbillion from UV radiation, which speeds up oxidation of lubricating oils. The elements of this shield are machined from a single ingot of titanium.

As may be expected, nearly every component and mechanism had to be developed from scratch specifically for Horological Machine N°6. The 475-piece movement runs in 68 jewels at 18,000 vph.

3. Turbines

The two spherical turbines, each composed of 15 curved vanes, are machined from solid blocks of aluminum. These turbines are driven from the rotation of the automatic winding rotor by a gear train designed to increase the number of rotations. The turbines do not supply power to the movement, but instead use air to slow the rotor’s rotational speed in the event it should begin to spin too quickly, for example due to a sudden movement of the wrist.

4. Case

The HM6 case is machined from two solid ingots of aerospace grade Ti-6Al- 4V (Grade 5) titanium. The alloy consists of titanium with 6% aluminum, 4% vanadium, 0.25% iron, and 0.2% oxygen. MB&F says this alloy strong and light, with high resistance to corrosion and low thermal conductivity. And while alloy’s strength makes it ideal for a space-age Swiss replica watches case, polishing and satin finishing the complex curves requires more than 100 hours of work.

The pivoted lugs enable the strap to fit snugly around the wrist and, along with the lightweight titanium case and form-fitting spheres in each corner, ensures that HM6 is an extremely comfortable watch to wear, even on smaller wrists. The case consists of 80 components and measures 49.5 x 52.3 x 20.4 mm.

5. Crystals

The HM6 is fitted with a total of ten sapphire crystals, including four for the hour and minute indications, four for the turbines, one for the tourbillion, and a flat one for the display back. Each of the nine domes is first machined from a solid block of sapphire crystal. Because the hardness of sapphire is exceeded only by that of diamond, is it incredibly difficult to shape into complex forms. Diamond-tipped tools machine the crystal into perfect replica watches uk domes, and the walls must be absolutely uniform in thickness, otherwise optical distortions will be evident. Once machining is complete, the domes are frosted, then polished inside and out to perfect clarity.

6. Production and Price

Horological Machine N°6 “Space Pirate” is a limited edition of 50 pieces, priced at $230,000.

Fratello Friday: Explaining the Seiko 6159-7010 “Grandfather Tuna”

We’ve got something different for this week’s Fratello Friday. For a while, we’ve had a Seiko expert on board Fratello Watches by the name of Michael Stockton and one of his personal interests are (vintage) Seiko and Grand Seiko replica watches uk sale. This week, we bring you one of his stories, about the Seiko 6159-7010 also known to Seiko fans as the “Grandfather Tuna.”

The modern version of this model, known in today’s Seiko collection as the Marinemaster Professional (or “Emperor Tuna”), is bound to get a few new cousins at the upcoming Baselworld 2015 show. But first things first: let’s give you some more explanation on this quintessential 1975 Seiko divers’ watch.

So there I was, fighting inescapable jet lag while meandering the halls of the surreal world that is Nakano Broadway. If you’ve never been to Nakano, it’s a haven for the otaku who collect anything (and everything) related to the world of Japanese manga. So why was I in this people-watching Mecca and why are you reading about it on a site devoted to cheap replica watches uk? Nakano Broadway houses several pre-owned watch shops including the well-known and worthwhile Jack Road. It is also home to many shops selling consignment items, which include everything from toys to antiques to… more watches. It was on this day, in January, that I entered an overstuffed, messy consignment shop, filled mainly with odd display cases of action figures, when I spied something that I had long been craving: the Seiko 6159- 7010 “Grandfather” Tuna.

After a nearly three-year search for this watch, I don’t think I could have written a more storybook ending. I’ll attempt to shed a little light on why this best replica watches uk is so unique and desirable. Once I’ve whetted your appetite, I’ll endeavor to share some impressions on its modern successor, the Seiko Marinemaster Professional “Emperor” Tuna.

A quick search on the Seiko 6159-7010 will bring up the familiar story of why the original Tuna was created by Seiko. Complaints by Japanese professional divers in the late 1960s about watch failures at working depths led to a serious undertaking by Seiko to design a true, effective tool watch that could withstand all the pressures of working while submerged. The result came in 1975: the Seiko 6159-7010 Professional. Its industry-first features included the titanium case, ceramic-coated titanium shroud, L-shaped gasket, and vented rubber strap. With a 600-meter depth rating, the 6159 also went without a helium release valve. Visually, the most distinctive element of the Seiko 6159-7010 is its screwed-on shroud which gives the new replica watches uk it’s “tuna can” profile, and hence nickname. The shroud protects the case while also allowing for two access points to spin the bidirectional bezel. Of course, this shroud adds a lot of visual mass and creates the 50.5-mm case diameter. Inside the watch beats the 6159a, a Grand Seiko-derived 36,000-vph automatic movement. It hacks and can be hand wound. Date changing is quick-set. There’s no doubt that Seiko pulled out all the stops for this piece. Incidentally, the Seiko 6159-7010 (also marketed as the 7019 outside of Japan) was made from 1975 until early 1979.

Aside from the technical innovation, what is the Seiko 6159-7010 like to view, handle and, most importantly, wear? The 6159 is not pretty. It is not going to battle with the Rolex Submariner for the title of “tool watch most likely to be worn to a board meeting.” Rather, it looks brutally effective for its purpose — think Rambo knife and you’re in the right ballpark — and will most likely be worn very casually. The deeply set dial is one of classic simplicity that has stood the test of time; it has been largely carried forward to today’s renditions of the Tuna. The Seiko 6159-7010 dial and caseback show the Suwa symbol denoting its place of build. It’s extremely clear, and everything from the markers, the hour and minute hands, and the iconic lollipop sweep hand are sized perfectly. Even the date window is nicely detailed yet unobtrusive; perhaps current fake watches uk designers should take a lesson.  Seiko chose to outfit this model with its proprietary Hardlex mineral glass. Returning to the caseback, the tsunami motif that is used today on Seiko’s dive watches is proudly shown. When strapping this one on, let’s be thankful that Seiko decided to use titanium as a medium, because this watch is still a heavy little nugget.

As far as wearability, a lot has been made about the height of the Seiko Tunas and the genetic requirement of a big wrist. Well, as a cheap Omega replica watches lover, I have been cursed with an extremely small wrist and I can tell you that the Seiko 6159-7010, and all other Tuna models, work for me. The key to such a great fit lies with the integrated lugs. My only modification is to use a thin, 22-mm NATO strap, as the original Seiko rubber straps are too long for me and prop up the case away from my wrist. Regarding watch height, it is true that you won’t likely be sliding this under your slim-fit dress shirt, and it may end up denting furniture.  Onto the usable parts: the bezel is a slightly clattery, bidirectional 60-click affair that has nice click detents and a surprisingly good tactile feel. Meanwhile, the crown is a big beast that screws in nicely. Date changes occur with a precision click.

Let’s discuss a little about this specific piece and I’ll give some topical buying advice. The piece shown here is an early 1975 execution of the Seiko 6159-7010 because it lacks the “m” for “meters” next to the depth rating. It’s more rare than the “m” version and, some would say, more valuable. How much more valuable? Well, that’s tricky, because I simply have not seen many 6159 Tunas for sale before or after I found this one. This was an expensive watch when released and was likely not made in truly massive quantities. Common places to look for 6159s are, of course, eBay and the brand-only forums. Prices seem to range from $1,200 for rough examples to over $2,000 for better examples, but bidding seems to fluctuate wildly. Popularity for vintage Seikos, and most vintage high quality replica watches uk, is on the rise, so assume that values will continue to creep in an upward direction. Look out for chipped shrouds, stripped crown tubes, missing or stripped shroud screws and signs of water entry. Shrouds are scratched easily, but I consider this to be surface character. Parts such as bezels, shrouds, dials are VERY difficult to find, so this is not a watch that I would recommend buying as an incomplete project unless you are highly patient. Thankfully, this is a stout movement, so durability seems to be a hallmark. If you’re not one for vintage pieces but like the look of the 6159, Seiko did release a Historical Collection piece called the SBDX005 in a limited edition of 1,000 pieces. These rarely show up and prices are normally above those of the Seiko 6159-7010. The piece is cosmetically very similar to the original save for a different movement, an additional 1 mm of diameter, and a different sweep hand. Personally, I really enjoy my Seiko 6159-7010 and feel lucky to have found it. It runs with extreme accuracy and is a fantastic conversation piece.

So, let’s say that the vintage 6159 market has you frustrated or you simply like buying new; what is the best choice if you’re yearning for a purely mechanical Seiko Tuna? The answer is simple: the so-called “Emperor” Tuna. After the Seiko 6159-7010 production ended, the world turned its eyes to quartz and Seiko created now-legendary quartz Tunas for many years and still does with its 1,000-meter “Darth” Tuna model and its smaller, 300-meter models. In 2009, however, a new automatic Tuna was released in the Seiko Prospex line as the SBDX011 Marinemaster Automatic Professional. Cloaked in PVD titanium with a diameter of almost 52 mm, the Emperor Tuna is a menacing beast indeed. It ups the ante on its spiritual predecessor by bringing a 1,000-meter depth rating to the game while continuing to forgo any type of helium valve. The movement is Seiko’s fantastic, hand-winding, hacking 8L35 (also being used in the Seiko Marinemaster 300 SBDX001), which is basically an unadjusted Grand Seiko 9S55 movement. A nice upgrade over the Seiko 6159-7010 is the use of an AR-coated sapphire crystal. Like the Seiko 6159-7010, you’re getting a top class, although not hi-beat, movement in a workhorse case. The date adjust is quick set but the bezel changes to unidirectional with 120 fine clicks.

Some quick notes on the Emperor; it’s a fantastically well-built watch that oozes quality while looking like something that could take on almost anything that comes its way. Lume is simply ridiculous and the finishing is on a par with top replica watches twice its price (or more). Despite being in black, which is supposedly slimming, and only slightly larger than the Seiko 6159-7010, the Emperor does wear a bit bigger than its Grandfather. I suspect it has to do with the slightly thicker case (more than 17 mm) and drooping lugs. Here again, I opted for a thin, 22-mm NATO due to my still puny wrists. For those who love strap changes, this piece features drilled lugs.

Despite the fact that the piece is still essentially Japan-only, finding an Emperor is easy! Once again, places like eBay or even Chrono24 are good sources and the Seiko boutiques outside of Japan are finally starting to carry them. Also, some of the Japanese retailers are good sources. I am personally guilty of picking up this piece at one of the ubiquitous “camera shops” that are all over Japan. These shops are official sellers, offer great duty-free prices, and often give additional discounts for using certain credit cards. Prices vary with the strength of the Japanese Yen but I’ve seen pricing at less than $2,000 to well over that amount. Plus, the service in Japan is legendary and, hey, it makes for a great story!

I hope you enjoyed a brief introduction to a couple legendary Seiko Tunas. If you are thinking of adding a high-end, non-Swiss replica watches uk for sale to your collection, I’d highly recommend taking a look at one of these. A word of caution, though: once you enter the deep world of Seiko, it’s highly unlikely that you’ll emerge!

Watch Test: TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11 Edition Steve McQueen

The Monaco Calibre 11 Edition Steve McQueen, an updated version of the replica watches uk sale McQueen wore in the movie “Le Mans,” has racing written all over it. Did it take the checkered flag in our test?

More than four decades have passed since Steve McQueen wore a Heuer Monaco chronograph in the car-racing movie “Le Mans.” Two years ago, TAG Heuer (the company added “TAG” to its name in 1985) launched a commemorative edition of the best Swiss replica watches called the Monaco Calibre 11 Edition Steve McQueen. We took it out for a test drive.

The watch’s styling evokes its racing heritage. It has racing stripes on its dial – along with a logo that reads simply “Heuer” in homage to its pre-TAG origin − and a perforated strap. The new replica watches  is big – 39 mm by 39 mm and 15 mm thick – but it’s very comfortable. Nothing scratches, pinches, or rubs. The clasp and supple calfskin strap both feel pleasant on the wrist.

The movement is a Sellita SW 300 base, with Glucydur balance, paired with a chronograph module made specifically for TAG by Dubois Dépraz. (Most other Monaco chronographs contain the ETA 2894.) The movement’s configuration enables TAG to place the crown on the left side of the case while keeping the chronograph pushers on the right, the same arrangement that was used in the original Monaco. (That watch, launched in 1969, was one of the world’s first automatic chronographs. It contained a caliber developed by Breitling, Büren and Dubois Dépraz, and, like the caliber in our tested Swiss replica watches store, was numbered “11.”) It is accomplished by turning the base movement by 180 degrees and then installing the chronograph module in the opposite direction so the push buttons are in their usual position.

Having the crown on the left gives the watch historical accuracy and an unusual look to boot, but does it offer any practical advantages? One benefit is clear: assuming you are wearing the watch on your left hand, the crown won’t dig into the back of your hand when you bend your wrist sharply, to do a few push-ups, for example. Unfortunately, the disadvantages outweigh this plus. First, a right-handed wearer must take the Montblanc replica watches online off before he can wind or set it because he’ll find it cumbersome or impossible to operate the crown with his right hand. Second, after he takes the watch off, he’ll have to do the winding or setting with his left hand, and not every right-handed wearer will find this easy. Third, the directions for winding and setting are reversed, i.e., you not only have to use the “wrong” hand, you also have to move your fingers in the opposite direction to the one you’re accustomed to.

The watch has another operation-related problem: the stop-start chronograph button is too easy to push in. A smoothly running button is generally a desirable feature, but the one on our test Siwss replica watches for men yielded to pressure so readily that contact with the tightly fitting sleeve of the wearer’s jacket was enough to stop the chronograph prematurely.

These shortcomings are balanced out by several virtues. The crown is large and easy to grasp; the chronograph pushers are also big enough to operate easily; and the movement has both a stop-seconds function and, for the date display, a rapid-reset mechanism. The clasp, made of stainless steel, is sturdy, well-crafted and user-friendly. You open it by pushing two large buttons. It snaps firmly shut afterwards. The strap can be extended – continuously, not by increments – via a clamping mechanism that holds the strap securely in the chosen position.

The clasp is designed so that more leather than metal is in contact with your wrist, thus enhancing wearing comfort. In terms of quality, the strap, laboriously hand-sewn, is on a par with the clasp. If you want to change the strap or remove it to clean the side of the case between the lugs, you’ll be pleased to find little slides on the lugs. No tools are required: a bit of force is all that’s needed to move these slides.

The crystal and case are also well-crafted. The former, which is cambered and has elaborate faceting along its edges, is made of sapphire even though this material is notoriously difficult to work with. (Until 2009, TAG Heuer used Plexiglas.) The longitudinal curve of the crystal conforms to the curve of the case, which rises higher between the lugs than at the left and right sides. This complex shape is costly to achieve compared with an ordinary inset crystal.

The case has many chamfers and edges. The borders between polished and satin-finished surfaces are very precise. The chrono pushers are highly detailed and distinctively shaped. They are set in bushings that protect them from impacts and give them greater hold, thus minimizing wiggling. The caseback has a round sapphire window and is held in place by screws. There are only four of them, standard for a square or rectangular high quality replica watches, but they are thick and sturdy.

If there were anything to complain about with respect to the case, it perhaps would be the small size of the caseback window. Although there is no compelling technical reason for it, this window is smaller than the movement. The edges of the movement and of the oscillating weight thus remain hidden.

Beneath the window, we were nonetheless pleased to discover that TAG Heuer uses the high-quality “premium” version of the SW 300. This quality grade is comparable to the “top” grade of the ETA 2892, which has precision worthy of a COSC certificate but is not sent to COSC to be tested. (The SW 300 has the same specs as the ETA 2892; it was designed to be used as an alternative to that movement.)

The chronograph module, which is on the dial side of the movement and hence concealed, relies on the simple but effective cam method of switching, which we’re familiar with from ETA’s workhorse 7750. The chronograph works via vertical coupling, which prevents spasmodic jumping of the chronograph seconds hand when the stopwatch function starts.

The watch’s running behavior was basically good. On the wrist and on the timing machine, with and without the chronograph running, the average daily gain was about three seconds. The amplitude scarcely declined when the chronograph was switched on, which leads us to conclude that all the working surfaces in the chronograph module are well crafted. We discovered a maximum difference of 11 seconds among the various positions in ordinary operation and 12 seconds with the chronograph switched on. That’s why the cheap luxury replica watches earned only six points in the “rate results” category. The low daily gain and stable amplitude would otherwise have earned the watch a perfect 10.

The dial’s legibility is also a drawback. The easiest display to read is the minutes counter at 9 o’clock (its hand runs continually rather than jumping forward once a minute). The main dial achieves its very successful retro and auto-racing look by eliminating numerals to mark the hours and minutes, but this makes the watch harder to read. Furthermore, the contrast between the luminous areas on the center-mounted hands and the mostly pale dial is very weak. The luminous material is applied sparingly and glows only dimly in the dark. And the running seconds subdial is confusing because it has so many markers.

Poor legibility won’t dissuade fans of mechanical timekeeping who have taken a shine to this smartly styled best luxury replica watches uk. The watch’s price, $8,100, is high, but not too high given the watch’s expensive movement, its high quality and its good looks.