Monochrome Essentials: Reviewing the Patek Philippe Ref. 5496P-014 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde

2014 was the year of steel for Patek Philippe. Alongside the huge surprise of the sporty Annual Calendar Chronograph 5960/1, we at Monochrome Watches presented you, in an extensive hands-on article, the new Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A, a complicated edition of the Gérald Genta-designed icon. However, even with this recent trend toward steel (which was in answer to several collectors’ requests), we shouldn’t forget that Patek’s specialty is dress and complicated replica watches uk. One from the 2014 collection particularly grabbed our attention, the Patek Philippe 5496P-014 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde, with its new “honey brown” dial and distinctive layout, which could be described as “controlled eccentricity” in an otherwise very traditional world.

The Patek Philippe 5496P isn’t really a 2015 newest replica watch, as it had already been presented at Baselworld 2011 with a white dial. Also, the movement and its quite unusual layout is not specific to this reference, as the Caliber 324 S QR was already powering the 5159. The latter was somehow one of the most “off-the-beaten-path” watches in Patek’s collection back then (excepting a few very rare and limited editions). It came with an officer’s case (meaning straight lugs with screws on the side and a hinged dust cover on the back side), a guilloché dial with large Roman numerals, and unusual hands. In 2011, the first edition of the 5496P was a softer and more sober version of that layout, with its Calatrava case and “pure” dial design. For 2014, Patek Philippe brings back – in its usual, somewhat reserved fashion – a bit of eccentricity, a warm and pleasant color Patek calls “honey brown.”

Patek Philippe 5496P-014 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde - dial angle 2

The dial layout itself could be regarded as “out-of-the-way” for a Patek Philippe watch, as we are used to seeing Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendars with three subdials – like, for example, the iconic reference 5140. Don’t forget that we are talking about a brand build around tradition and classicism. What would be considered a total lack of originality in another, younger brand has to be seen in the context of one of the most conservative – in the best sense of the word – manufactures. Patek Philippe does not create MB&Fs of Urwerks. It does refined and classical Omega Replica watches, with elegance and soberness. So, in a sense, this layout is less conservative.

In the lower part of the dial sits the moon-phase indicator, represented with a blue disk and silver printings for the moon and stars. The perpetual calendar’s indications are displayed in three apertures: day at 9 o’clock, month at 3 o’clock, and leap year at 12 o’clock. The date is indicated by a retrograde hand that points to a scale between 7 o”clock and 4 o’clock. Time is classically displayed by dauphine hands in the center of the dial.

 

Close-Up: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Dark Side of the Moon”

Since its debut in 1957, Omega’s iconic Speedmaster chronograph, nicknamed “Moonwatch” for its presence on all six NASA lunar missions, sported a tricompax dial arrangement. In 2011, Omega outfitted the Top Swiss Replica Watches UK with a new co-axial movement and bicompax design, both of which are used again in the first Moonwatch with a black ceramic case, unveiled at Baselworld 2013.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch “Dark Side of the Moon” derives its name from its black zirconium oxide ceramic dial and matching black ceramic case, which is 44.25 mm in diameter and boasts both brushed and polished finishes. The dial is notable for its applied indices, made of 18k white gold, and the two blackened subdials at 3 o’clock and 6 o’clock. This new bicompax subdial arrangement was first used on the Replica Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Co-Axial Chronograph, the first Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch to contain Omega’s in-house chronograph Caliber 9300. As on that model, the subdial at 3 o’clock serves as both the 12-hour and 60-minute counter, using two hands to display the elapsed time intuitively. The small seconds subdial is at 9 o’clock, and the date is displayed on a window at 6 o’clock, the spot occupied by the elapsed-hours subdial in older models.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch in black ceramic

The hour and minute hands, as well as the hands on both subdials, are also made of 18k white gold. the central chronograph hand is rhodium-plated and ends in a red tip. For this latest version of its iconic moon watch, Omega has coated the hour, minute and chronograph hands, as well as the two small dots at 12 o’clock, with Super-LumiNova for legibility in the dark. The bezel, also made from polished black ceramic, has the Speedmaster’s familiar tachymeter scale, here inscribed in matte chromium nitride. The chronograph pushers are in polished ceramic. The Rolex Replica Watches for Men, which is water-resistant to 50 meters, has scratch-resistant sapphire crystals in the front and back.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic

For years, the Portofino line from IWC Schaffhausen was seen as the silent star of the company’s product portfolio. Subject to continuous development, the line has increasingly been the focus of attention from watch devotees, its appeal based on minimalist design and discreet elegance. Now, in the shape of the Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic, the family has a new addition that celebrates the art of understatement with its own distinctive charm and style.

A wristwatch could hardly be more modest: with two hands and a winding crown, it has nothing to distract from the purist lines and clear-cut dial design. After all, the soul of genuine elegance lies in the art of omission. The Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic (Ref. IW511101/IW511102) dispenses with any form of embellishment and was designed, purely and simply, to show the time of day. It also radiates composure and an undiluted aesthetic. It has a traditional, arched-edge front glass, which not only makes the 43.5-millimetre diameter of this harmonious model seem smaller than it actually is, but also gives the Swiss Replica Watches UK watch a classic, balanced appearance. In order to make the overall impression as discreet as possible, even the power reserve display has been moved to the back of the watch, where it can be seen through the sapphire-glass back.

Peerless mechanics in a traditional design

The IWC hand-wound 59060 calibre is famed for its stamina: fully wound, with no further action required, it will continue running for precisely 192 hours or 8 full days. Only then will the owner need to replenish its store of energy by winding the Omega Replica Watches Sale via the crown. Two large bridges conceal the rear of the movement almost entirely, leaving just the balance on view. This contemporary watch design guarantees an impressive level of robustness and reliability. The upper bridge serves as a bearing for the barrel, the differential and the winding mechanism, while the lower bridge fulfils the same function for the power reserve display and conceals the train-wheel bridge below. All bridges are exquisitely decorated with Geneva stripes. The movement also features an indexless balance, which has four golden weight screws on the balance rim to facilitate precision adjustment. As is standard for most modern watch movements, it oscillates at a frequency of 4 hertz, or 28,800 beats per hour. Like the Breguet spring bent into shape in using traditional watchmaking techniques, this also helps to make the Replica Watches UK Online extremely precise. The Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic in red gold (Ref. IW511101) sports a silver-plated dial and gold-plated hands  and  indices  as  well as a dark brown leather strap. The stainless-steel version (Ref. IW511102) is available with a silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and indices and a black leather strap. The high-quality straps are made exclusively for IWC Schaffhausen by renowned Italian shoe manufacturer Santoni, now run by the second generation of the family in the form of Giuseppe Santoni. A complex technique during the manufacturing process endows the leather with a patina that results in the characteristic gradation of colour. The technique makes the leather appear as though it has been lovingly used for several years, although it is, in fact, brand new. Another instantly recognizable Santoni feature is the orange leather lining found on the inner surface of the strap. All the charm and aesthetic appeal of life in southern Europe is united in the perfect craftsmanship of both watch and strap. The Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic is available in an unlimited edition exclusively at selected IWC boutiques.